Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
